Exploring Yau Tsim Mong: The Heartbeat of Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei
For Hong Kongers and tourists alike, it’s impossible not to be captivated by the dazzling landscape of the bustling city. From its world-renowned harbour skyline to towering skyscrapers and modern architecture, to lush hiking trails and nature reserves, Hong Kong has much to offer. At the heart of the city lies Yau Tsim Mong District, a place that perfectly captures the old soul of Hong Kong. While not a ‘hidden gem’ due to its population density, it deserves more recognition.
A Cultural Mosaic
Yau Tsim Mong is one of the eighteen districts in Hong Kong, consisting of three main areas: Yau Ma Tei, Mong Kok and Tsim Sha Tsui. The first word of each of these places can be put together to form the word ‘Yau Tsim Mong’. Apart from the three, a more minor but equally essential location within Yau Tsim Mong is Jordan. Filled with independent stores, bustling street markets and true ‘hidden gems’, many venture here to see key spots and observe unique attributes, the main reason being street market culture, highlighted by neon signs, high-density buildings and abundance in traditional Hong Kong street food. Notably, it has the highest percentage of ethnic minorities in Hong Kong, including South Asian, Southeast Asian, and African communities, enriching the local scene with diverse cultures and businesses.
MONG KOK: A Vibrant Tapestry
History and Transformation
The Yau Tsim Mong District begins with Mong Kok, known as the most densely populated district in Hong Kong. Mong Kok is best distinguished for its large, flashy, and iconic neon signs, as well as streetside shopping and snacking. Originally a fishing village, it underwent rapid urbanization in the late 1900s attracting immigrants mainly from mainland China. In fact, there used to be a large Uyghur community in the area, which eventually declined as other minorities entered. With many residents scrambling to earn a living, a multitude of stores and hawker stalls were opened along many streets, boosting business and earning a reputation for not only being a successfully commericialized area without modern-looking architecture, but also a place home to many old and iconic spots.
Shopping & Street-side Fun
Fa Yuen Street: A hotspot for street shopping, once a produce market, now known as Sneaker Street for its numerous unique sneakshops, sports gear stores, as well as trendy and aesthetic stores and cafes in the area.
Said iconic spots above include Fa Yuen Street, located between Boundary Street and Dundas Street, which is one of the main hotspots for streetside shopping, and a significant symbol of Hong Kong’s street market culture. In the 20th century, Fa Yuen Street used to be a hub and a market for fresh produce. After urbanisation occurred, a lot of small-scale manufacturing took place. This caused many high density residential areas to be developed in order to accommodate the influx of industrial workers. Furthermore, there was close proximity to convenience, making it even more preferable. After the late 20th century, gentrification and modernization of some areas brought rise to more trendy and aesthetic stores and cafes in the area. It can also be called Sneaker Street, due to the fifty and above stores selling sports gear (mainly shoes).
Vibrance: Neon Signs & Heritage
Portland and Tung Choi Streets: Famous for their neon signs and commercial vibrancy, surrounded by numerous pharmacies, local nightclubs,nightclubs and restaurants. Unfortunately, due to recent strict government regulations and increased safety and environmental concerns, many iconic neon signs have been taken down. Tung Choi Street and Portland Street are two of the few places that have yet to lose that spark and keep the area alive, so go visit them as soon as possible!
618 Shanghai Street: A cultural heritage site with pre-war verandah-style shophouses showcasing unique architecture. This street is listed as Grade 1 historical buildings. These preserved shophouses, also called tong-lau in Cantonese, showcase unique architectural features. 618 Shanghai Street can be categorized as an area under a revitalization and preservation project by the Urban Renewal Authority.
Where to Eat in Mong Kok
Difficulty in finding places to eat is the last thing to be thought of about Mong Kok. Along with shops, restaurants can be found in every nook and cranny. Must-gos for those wishing to indulge in local Hong Kong flavours include One Dim Sum, located on Tung Choi Street, and Kam Wah Cafe, located on Bute Street. However, there is a welcoming and diverse array of non-local restaurant gems as well, eateries that bring diversity and culture to Mong Kok’s mainly local environment. You will find that many ethnic minorities frequently crave a small taste of home wherever they go.
On Tung Choi Street, you can also find the 1453 Ottoman Mediterranean Cuisine, a cozy place that serves halal Turkish food. Walking across Shanghai Street, in an easy-to-identify building, is an eatery called Dignity Kitchen. Originally a social enterprise business from Singapore, they extended their services to Hong Kong. The restaurant’s unique point is that disabled people are hired as workers, allowing opportunities for those hindered by their disabilities. With a halal-certification for their laksa corner, this place is perfect for both Muslim and non-Muslim visitors looking for a taste of southeast Asian cuisine.
Dining
1453 Ottoman Mediterranean Cuisine
A restaurant serving authentic Turkish cuisine that offers an immersive Turkish dining experience, with the restaurant adorned in cultural and vibrant decorations.
Dignity Kitchen
A social enterprise business restaurant extended from Singapore that serves refreshing Singaporean dishes, including a halal-certified laksa corner. The eatery stands out by training and hiring disabled people as restaurant workers, providing them with employment opportunities.
NAM VIET NAM CAFÉ
A Vietnamese restaurant specializing in fun and experimental fusion dishes, representing contemporary cultural concepts and utilizing local Viet ingredients to experience the taste of Southern Vietnam.
Spots to Checkout
A colourful and busy market selling a variety of plants and flowers, commonly busy during Chinese New Year due to the hunt of auspicious plants.
A Hong Kong style cha chaan teng offering warm local favourites, from pineapple buns to Hong Kong style French Toast.
A bustling and ultimate street market that attracts both tourists and residents alike, selling different types of clothes, souvenirs and accessories at great bargain prices.
YAU MA TEI: A Step Back in Time
Historical Roots and Cultural Heritage
Falling underneath Mong Kok is Yau Ma Tei, another historical neighbourhood, with a touch more of heritage. Its history dates back to the 19th century, located at a river valley with a village and many cultivation growth, and was referred to as ‘Kwun Chung’. Before British rule, Kwun Chung, or now Yau Ma Tei, used to be a gathering bay for fishermen. The area mainly consisted of residential and retail facilities. Apart from business and other commercial aspects, Yau Ma Tei is home to multiple well-preserved historical sights, both from colonial-era and older Chinese culture, not having changed or demolished these sites. Examples include the Tin Hau Temple and the colonial-era style Yau Ma Tei Police Station. 24% of all the ethnic minorities in Yau Tsim Mong reside in the Yau Ma Tei area, with many of them being Indian and Pakistani communities. This is due to these minorities mainly finding work in docks and factories to make a living.
Discovering Gems and History
251 Shanghai Street: Jade Market, a hotspot famed for its sale of the Jade gemstone, alongside a wide range of valuables. On one side of the street you can find a variety of gemstones and handicrafts, and on the other side, unique antiques that have an interesting and hidden history. Previously a meet up spot for jade traders and buyers in the 1930s, the market was formally established in 1970, becoming the main hub for jade trade in Hong Kong. To those possessing a passion for collecting quirky and unfamiliar items, this place is your go to!
Temple Street: One of the oldest temples in Hong Kong, the Tin Hau Temple. Comprising a row of five adjacent buildings, alongside several altars, pavilions and courtyards, its expansive layout is elevated by its Cantonese-style designs including intricate carvings, symbolic statues and ornamental elements.
The temple memorializes the goddess Tin Hau, who was believed to have the power to control the weather and protect fishermen and sailors. If you get lucky and decide to visit during cultural festivals, try not to miss out on witnessing their prayer ceremonies or lion dances!
Good Eats:
The best nomination for a staple like claypot rice is at Hing Kee Claypot Rice at Temple Street. Enjoy a symphony of textures and flavours, from the soft rice and its crispy bottom, to the topping like their succulent Chinese sausage (lap cheong) and different meats. You can also head over to the well known Mido Cafe, a local restaurant famous for its pork chop rice and a large neon sign attracting customers. Looking for a more ‘aesthetic’ place with an Instagram-worthy look? Mum’s Not Home Cafe offers not only a vibrant and picturesque vibe, but also many different types of tea drinks and additional food menu items.
Dining and Groceries
Cravings (Halal)
A South Asian restaurant that serves a fusion of Indian, Middle Eastern, and Nepalese cuisine, from doner rolls and pizza to chaat and chicken biryani .
Aama Store
A Nepali grocery store and food supplier selling carefully curated and hard-to-source Nepali products like spices and lentils to packaged Nepali food products
Salam Namaste
A curry house restaurant with friendly staff and a fun beer collection, serving appetizing Indian food.
Hing Kee Claypot Rice
An old-school and well known local restaurant with quick service famed for its claypot rice, with succulent meaty toppings and crispy rice bottoms.
Mido Cafe
A nostalgic local restaurant with a timeless ambience serving Cantonese-style cafe dishes, with its well-known neon sign located outside to attract customers.
Mum’s Not Home
A quirky and eclectic cafe serving a wide and unique variety of teas and western cakes with a plethora of flavours, providing an antique style and maximalist atmosphere.
Spots to Checkout
A neoclassical and well preserved police station, alongside being Kowloon’s oldest.
A hub for buying jade goods and other unique and quirky antiques you might not find elsewhere!
One of the oldest temples in Hong Kong that you can still visit, with several scenic and adjacent old-style buildings, altars, courtyards and pavilions in the area.
Yau Ma Tei Wholesale Fruit Market
The oldest fruit market in Hong Kong, selling vibrant and fresh fruits and additional produce, also classified as a Grade II Historic Building
Discover More with GuideFong
While we have mostly featured Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei, there’s more to the Yau Tsim Mong d istrict and its rich tapestry! Explore even more businesses and their cultural diversity with GuideFong.
If you're interested in learning more about how we support these small businesses, reach out to us at info@guidefong.org. Stay tuned for our other blog posts too!
This blog post was drafted by Abeer Syed who participated in Community Business Internship Program at the Foundation for Shared Impact (FSI) during the summer of 2024. The Community Business Internship Program to support ethnically diverse youths in Hong Kong was supported by Linklaters Asia.
